Tucked away in the rugged hills of the Ripollès region in northern Catalonia, Castell de Llaés is a 10th-century fortress that offers a rare blend of medieval history, natural beauty, and quiet reflection. About a two-hour drive from Barcelona and just a short drive from Ripoll, this isolated stronghold invites travelers to immerse themselves in Catalonia’s past while hiking mountain trails, exploring sacred sites, and even spending the night in a real castle.
A Fortress Above the Valleys
Originally documented in 919, Castell de Llaés was one of several defensive towers built by the Counts of Besalú. Perched high on a hill with commanding views of the surrounding terrain, the castle once served as a lookout and refuge. Today, its Romanesque stonework, fortified towers, and panoramic terraces remain intact, offering visitors a unique opportunity to experience history in place.
Sacred Ground: Església de Sant Bartomeu de Llaés and the Cemetery
Located within the castle complex is the Església de Sant Bartomeu de Llaés, an 11th-century Romanesque chapel that has stood for nearly a thousand years. With its austere design, single nave, and slender bell tower, it exudes quiet reverence. The chapel still serves the local community and is often used for private worship or simple gatherings.
Just beyond the chapel is the castle’s historic cemetery—a small, grassy enclosure that holds weathered gravestones, some dating back centuries. This peaceful plot, sheltered by stone walls and shaded by trees, adds a moving layer of depth to the site’s spiritual energy.
El Panteó de Llaés: A Monument in the Wild
While hiking in the hills around the castle, keep an eye out for El Panteó de Llaés, a solemn stone monument located along a nearby trail. This site honors the memory of the Fets de Llaés, a tragic 19th-century battle in which Carlist forces were killed in the fight for Catalonia’s autonomy during the First Carlist War.
The Panteó stands as a memorial to those who lost their lives on this rugged land. Surrounded by forest and silence, it’s a stirring reminder of the region’s turbulent past—and one of the most reflective stops you’ll encounter along the trail network.
Stay in a Real Castle
And yes—you can stay the night at Castell de Llaés.
🏰 Book your stay: Castell de Llaés
👥 Your Hosts: Marc and Ginny, who lovingly manage the castle and ensure your experience is both comfortable and authentic. They are typically available 24/7 for any assistance you may need. We had a house mouse show up and Marc came and saved the day!
The property includes:
- 8 double bedrooms
- Large dining and lounge areas
- A full kitchen
- Multiple terraces with stunning views; you will drool over the sunsets here!
- Direct access to nature trails and historical sites
- Courtyard with grill and seating located between the castle and the historic Església de Sant Bartomeu de Llaés and cemetery. They have been known to host weddings there.
Guests rave about the tranquility, beauty, and sense of connection the castle provides—earning it a nearly perfect rating with over 130 reviews. Be aware though. You park below the castle and there is a pulley system to bring up your luggage; Marc will assist you.
Access to the castle is not prepared for people with reduced mobility since the last 50 meters are on an ascending ramp and only accessible on foot, it is a bit challenging to walk up even for mobile guests; you will not want to be wearing heals when you are in your princess preparations.
Hiking Trails & Natural Beauty
One of the best parts of visiting Castell de Llaés is the access to pristine hiking trails. These paths wind through forests, over rocky ridgelines, and past quiet chapels and historical ruins.
Popular hikes include:
- Castell de Llaés – Coll d’Oli – Mare de Déu de la Cau Loop (6 miles / 9.5 km):
A moderately challenging trail that showcases the diverse natural landscapes of the region—dense woods, open meadows, and hilltop views. - Trail to El Panteó de Llaés:
A shorter and less-traveled path leading to the Carlist war memorial. Along the way, you’ll encounter peaceful silence, wildflowers, and sweeping vistas. - We even did some photos out on the trails as a well for some fun beautiful fall backdrops.
Explore Nearby Ripoll
A 30-minute drive from the castle is the town of Ripoll, home to the legendary Monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll. This Benedictine monastery, founded in 880, features one of the most important Romanesque façades in Europe, with its intricately sculpted “Stone Bible.” The town also offers cafes, shops, and cultural sites for a relaxed day trip. There is a train station that you can use to take the train into Barcelona for a stress free day-trip into the city.
Ripoll is also the closest place to stock up the kitchen at the castle if you plan on cooking when you visit. There are not any close restaurants to the castle, so you will definitely want some food and snacks at a minimum. We had a personal chef with us that prepared our meals for us and did the grocery shopping too.
Getting There
✈️ By Plane + Car
Fly into Barcelona El Prat Airport (BCN). From there, it’s about a 2-hour drive through the Catalan countryside. Renting a car is recommended for flexibility, especially given the castle’s remote location. Some of the drive can be a little stressful as some of the roads are narrow; typical for a lot of overseas and European destinations, but not so typical for Americans.
🚆 By Train
You can also take a train from Barcelona to Ripoll (approx. 2 hours). From Ripoll, arrange a taxi or private shuttle to reach the castle, which sits on a hillside well off the main roads. The train is convenient too, if you just want to take a day trip into Barcelona for shopping or tours while you are in the local area.
Living the Dream at Castell de Llaés
To help bring our vision to life, we had an incredible creative team. We had a professional photographer and her assistants, a talented hair and makeup artist who transformed us daily into storybook characters, and a private chef who prepared delicious meals in the castle’s rustic kitchen. Their presence elevated the experience from magical to unforgettable—each of us felt pampered, beautiful, and completely immersed in the fairytale dream.
When we traveled to Castell de Llaés, it wasn’t just a trip—it was a fairytale brought to life. We spent five magical days in this remote medieval castle tucked in the hills of Catalonia, capturing breathtaking photo shoots and living out a fantasy we had only dreamed of.
Wearing flowing gowns and eye-catching outfits then gliding through ancient stone halls, we felt like true princesses, caught in a moment suspended in time. The chapel, the cemetery, the quiet mountain air—it all made us feel like the castle had chosen us. Every sunrise, sunset, and every shadow told a story, and we were lucky enough to be part of it.
Sunset, Style & Sweet Recovery
On our last day of the castle stay, we headed back to Barcelona via the train from Ripoll and embraced the beauty of the city with a sunset catamaran cruise on Port Vell, where the skyline shimmered as we let the sea wind lift our spirits. It was a peaceful way to explore the city—with laughter and reflection.
After our catamaran cruise we headed back to the castle for our final night there. We had to pack everything up and make our preparations to head back to Barcelona the next day to make our final journeys home. We had one beautiful final sunset at the castle; all of them were amazing there!
Barcelona Bound: From Royalty to the City Lights
We headed back to Barcelona a day before our flights home to prepare for our early morning wake-ups to head back to the US. As fate would have it, our visit coincided with National Day of Spain, and the city buzzed with celebration. We watched the parade go down Passeig de Gràci, soaking in the music, flags, dancing, and culture.
And of course, what would a return to the city be without a little retail therapy?
We wandered, while watching the parade, down Passeig de Gràcia, Barcelona’s most elegant shopping street, and splurged a bit in iconic shops like Louis Vuitton, Swarovski, and Prada. But my favorite indulgence? New Balance. I couldn’t resist picking up a few pairs (well four pairs) of exclusive European styles—designs you just can’t get in the U.S. It was a small joy, but a meaningful one, bringing home a bit of Europe one step at a time.
After shopping, we indulged in a fabulous dining experience at 9Reinas located at Carrer de València, 267, Barcelona. 9Reinas is a culinary gem in the heart of Barcelona, serving up authentic Argentinian flavors with a touch of elegance. Known for its premium cuts of meat, expertly grilled in traditional South American style, this upscale steakhouse blends rustic charm with refined sophistication. Whether you’re craving a perfectly cooked ribeye, handmade empanadas, or a rich Malbec to match.
9Reinas delivers a warm, intimate dining experience that feels both indulgent and welcoming. It’s a must-visit for meat lovers and anyone looking to savor a taste of Argentina in Spain. It was a nice meal with our group as we said out good-byes before we all headed our separate ways.
But with the excitement came heartache. Our photographer’s rental car was broken into, and our photographer’s gear—and with it, all of our professional castle shoot images—were stolen. It was a devastating loss. All the magic we’d captured was gone in a moment.
After we dealt with the police reports, we finally got to settle into our rooms at Renaissance Barcelona Fira Hotel for the evening. This hotel is located in Plaza Europa and is a modern, comfortable option. Located near the Fira Barcelona Convention Center, it features a rooftop pool, panoramic views, a Mediterranean restaurant, and easy airport access—perfect for a smooth finish to your trip.
It is a Marriott Bonvoy hotel and did you know if you are a Marriott Bonvoy member you can earn points on purchases at restaurants on their Eat Around Town program; all you have to do is load up your credit card and use that card at a participating restaurant and you earn Marriott Bonvoy points towards Marriott stays! I know you all enjoy travel or you wouldn’t be reading this, so dont give away points, sign up now!!
Yet, the memories are still ours, and so are a few precious cell phone shots that survived. They remind us that it was real—we wore the gowns, we danced in the halls, we lived the dream.
Final Reflection
Though we lost the photos, we kept something far more valuable: the experience, the laughter, the bond, and the dream that became real, if only for a few days. Castell de Llaés gave us the feeling of being untouchable, royal, and completely free. Barcelona reminded us that life is full of both beauty and unpredictability—and that we’re strong enough to handle both.
We went to Spain as travelers and came home as something more—dreamers, princesses, survivors, and soul-filled adventurers with glitter in our hearts and European sneakers on our feet. 👑✨👟
Tips for Future Travelers
- Book early: Castell de Llaés is a popular spot for private retreats and creative photo shoots. Book well in advance to secure your dates.
- Bring sturdy shoes: The hiking trails around the castle are stunning but rugged—appropriate footwear is essential.
- Travel insurance: Especially when carrying photography equipment or valuables, it’s worth considering.
- Stay connected: Cell service is limited in some parts of the mountains—download offline maps and trail info.
- Respect the space: The chapel and cemetery are still considered sacred by the local community. Quiet reflection is appreciated.
This trip was one of a kind—and if you’re looking to reconnect with history, nature, and a touch of magic, Castell de Llaés is calling.
This was my first trip to the castle, but I am no stranger to Barcelona or the entire country of Spain. My first visit there was in 2015 and have been there many times since. There are many great tours and things to see in the area. Here are some of my recommended tours in Barcelona:
- Sagrada Familia Tour – No trip to Barcelona is complete without experiencing the Sagrada Familia, Gaudí’s awe-inspiring masterpiece. This guided tour with skip-the-line access lets you bypass long waits and dive straight into the basilica’s rich symbolism and intricate architecture. Choose your preferred language—English, Spanish, French, or German—and follow your expert guide through the church’s highlights. You’ll hear clearly with provided headphones and even get a discount to enjoy a snack at a nearby café after the tour. It’s the perfect way to explore one of Spain’s most iconic landmarks with ease and insight.
- Montserrat Tour – This guided experience includes private or small-group options, with transportation, entrance fees, and hotel pick-up and drop-off included. Explore the Benedictine Monastery, admire the famed Black Madonna icon, and walk to the Holy Cave, said to be the site where the Virgin Mary once appeared. With nearly 1,000 years of history and awe-inspiring views, Montserrat offers a spiritual and cultural retreat high above Catalonia.
- Wine Tasting Tour – This full-day wine and cava tour from Barcelona offers an unforgettable journey into the heart of Catalonia’s wine country. Over the course of 10.5 hours, you’ll visit three boutique wineries in the Penedés region, where you’ll learn about both traditional and modern winemaking processes. At each stop, you’ll enjoy guided tastings of several wine and cava varieties, refining your palate with every pour. Led by a professional guide and limited to just eight guests, the tour ensures a relaxed, personalized experience. From strolling through vineyards to sipping sparkling cava at a family-run estate, this excursion is the perfect way to indulge your senses and discover the rich viticultural heritage just beyond Barcelona.
- Girona Tour – this tour gives Game of Thrones enthusiasts time to explore key King’s Landing locations. You will get to discover the filming sites in the city, follow in the footsteps of your favorite characters, and learn about how the producers transformed the city. Sample “King’s Hand” ice cream, visit other highlights of the city, and enjoy, with round-trip transportation from Barcelona.
- Day Trip to Madrid with Prado Museum – Make the most of your time in Spain by adding a full-day guided trip to Madrid from Barcelona via high-speed train. With round-trip tickets included, you’ll explore the capital’s highlights like the Prado Museum, Mercado San Miguel, Royal Palace, and Gran Via, all with the insight of a bilingual local guide. This small-group tour offers a seamless and enriching way to experience Madrid in just one day—perfect for travelers short on time but eager for cultural depth.
- Barcelona Highlights Private Full-Day Tour – If you’re short on time but want to see the best of Barcelona in a single day, this private full-day city tour is the perfect solution. With hotel pick-up included, you’ll explore top sites in a private vehicle and on foot, guided by a local expert. Highlights include Saint Caterina Market for tapas, the Arc de Triomf, Barcelona Cathedral, Parc de Montjuïc, Las Ramblas, and of course, the Sagrada Familia. You’ll have time to soak in history, grab local bites, and stroll Barcelona’s most iconic spots—without feeling rushed.
Now if you want the full experience of Spain, you can do a longer tour by one of my personal favorite tour operators, Globus Journeys. I have traveled to Southern Italy, Southern Ireland, Spain, Scotland and Greece with Globus and they go above and beyond to make sure your trip is fabulous.
All our tour guides have been amazing, accomodations are normally great (I have had one or two that are hit or miss) and food is good. I say only good, because I honestly have not been too fond of any food I have had when traveling in Europe with Globus or on my own. I don’t think it is any fault of Globus, I just think my palate is different than that of the European’s. I have had some excellent meals, but overall I would just rate them over all as good.
Be sure to sign up for their newlsetter and checkout Globus Escapes; these are off-season tours that sometimes include air and they CANNOT be beat! I will be getting the Scotland and Greece blogs posted soon, hopefully.
Be sure to subscribe to our newsletter so you get notified when our new posts come out with all the details on Scotland and Greece, plus all the latest road-trip adventures! We have a ton of new content, just haven’t had a ton of time to get it all edited and written. I promise we are working hard to get it all published for you all as soon as we can!
Also since the photos were stolen, I took it upon myself to redo some more princess shoots. I still have one more photo shoot, but with back surgery looming, not sure if it will be able to happen anytime soon. My most recent one was with Graciela, you can check out her blog here; she is a phenomenal woman and photographer.
XOXO
-S
