Day 3 of the Inca Trail: The Trek from Paqaymayu Camp to Wiñaywayna

Inca Trail Paqaymayu Camp – Wiñaywayna (13 hrs for 16km and 450 m/1,476 ft elevation gain)

The Ascent to Runkuraqay Pass

The early morning crew was the first starting from Paq’aymayu; the path gradually winds its way up, presenting trekkers with increasing challenges brought on by altitude. With each step towards the Runkuraqay Pass, situated at a breathtaking 3,950 m, the air feels crisper, each breath more laborious, yet strangely invigorating. The pass is more than just a geographical high point; it’s a personal achievement for every trekker. The sweeping views here serve as a reward, with the Andes sprawling out in all their glory, reminding one of nature’s unmatched splendor.

After reaching the summit, there was a steep descent with damp rocks that once again wasn’t kind to me especially. I slipped again, falling on my right elbow and right hip causing bruises and abrasions; one of my trekking poles even snapped in two pieces! My hubby saved the day, lifting me back to my feet and foregoing the use of one of his poles, giving it to me to use on the remainder of the trek.

Discovering Sayaqmarca’s Secrets

Post the exhilaration of the pass, the trail leads to the archaeological wonder of Sayaqmarca. This ancient site, perched precariously on a cliff, is a marvel of Inca engineering and design. Its name, meaning “Inaccessible Town,” feels almost ironic, as the path, though challenging, opens up a world of history. The stone steps, leading to this secluded town, offer a tangible connection to the past, a link between the ancient Incas and the modern-day explorer.

Phuyupatamarca

The descent from Sayaqmarca reveals another gem: Phuyupatamarca. Its name, translating to “Cloud Level Town,” is a poetic reflection of its location.

Just past Phuyupatamarca provided a setting for a midday meal. There was quite a feast served for lunch; chicken tenders, spaghetti casserole, soup, beef stir fry, vegetables, chicken and rice and dessert to boot. Every dish served, rich in flavor and tradition, rejuvenated the body, preparing it for the trail ahead. There was a portable toilet, a nod to modern convenience, added a touch of comfort for trekkers.

After lunch, we had to descend through a very tricky, dangerous cave. I was very thankful to have been able to stay up on my feet, no slips involved.

Intipata

The last set of ruins we passed through were that of Intipata. We stopped for a quick photo break and the descended down a steep set of stairs to where we were welcomed by llamas just as the sun was beginning to set. We pressed on in order to make it to camp before dark.

Winaywayna: Embracing Tranquility

The final destination for the day, Winaywayna, is an epitome of serenity. Its name, “Forever Young,” resonates with the evergreen nature surrounding it. As trekkers settled into the campsite, where “bomb drop” toilets were available as well as for those seeking rejuvenation, cold showers offer a brisk, refreshing respite, washing away the day’s fatigue. This campsite was shared among all other trekking teams and it was definitely the most crowded and stinkiest restroom facilities we experienced along the trail.

We had evening tea followed by dinner. My muscles were so weak, I did not even feel like I could walk far enough to even go to the restroom. My muscles trembled, my feet ached, and I took full advantage of my first aid kit and iced my aching back. Dinner was delicious and a must needed recharge. Efrain and Nikki got a birthday cake presented after dinner since their birthday was the following day when we would be in Machu Picchu. The chefs on our G Adventures team were constantly pulling rabbits out of their hats and amazing us more with each passing day on the trail.

In essence, the journey from Paq’aymayu to Winaywayna is not just a physical trek; it’s an odyssey through time, connecting trekkers with the land’s deep-rooted history and its ever-evolving present. With every step, one is reminded of the delicate balance between nature and civilization, endurance and rest, challenges and rewards. It’s a stretch of the Inca Trail that truly epitomizes the spirit of exploration.

This was the longest day for us, 13 hours on our feet! I thought Day 2 would have been the hardest, but the Day 3 experience proved to be very trying as well. My muscles cried out, my feet didn’t feel like they could take another step, and my knees even ached; my mind wanted to quit. My body longed for a bed, a pillow and a nice hot shower. We just had to push through to get to Day 4.

Check out what happened on Day 4 of the Inca Trail. If you’re wanting to make the venture to Peru, check out the entire Inca Trail post and entire trip with G Adventures post.